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Her Majesty, The Queen of England toured Kampong Ayer,
Brunei Darussalam September 1998

The Kampung Ayer of today retains many of its old-world features described by Pigafetta. Only now, its daily well being is overlooked by the chiefs of the many villages in the area. The Kampung has almost all the amenities available in other communities, such as schools, shops and mosques. The houses there are usually well equipped with the latest in modern technology.

For as low as $1, boatmen will ferry passengers along the breadth and length of the Brunei river.

River cruises aboard ferryboats can start at both ends of the Brunei river, one at the Muara side, at the Queen Elizabeth jetty (named after the reigning British queen after her first Brunei visit in 1972), and others at the various river boat taxi stations in the heart of town.

The more serfiscated river cruises for example those offered by the Sheraton Utama Hotel serve hot meals, breakfast, lunch or dinner, a sunset cruise or a view of the lighted-up town after dark.

The journey from the other end of the river starts at Kota Batu, the 16th century capital. The upstream journey during the 10 miles per hour cruise passes an ancient landmark, the tomb of Brunei's fifth ruler, Sultan Bolkiah, the Singing Captain, under whose reign Brunei was a dominant power in the 15th century.

On one bank of the Brunei river is a newer relic, a British warship used dur-ing World War II, sheltered from the elements.

The ferry moves on to Kampong Ayer, the Venice of the East. During the 18th century, here lived the fisher-men, blacksmiths, kris (native sword) makers, brass artisans, nipa palm mat makers, pearl and oyster collectors, traders and goldsmiths.

A new Kampong Ayer has risen, settlements of concrete houses with glass windowpanes, and connected by cement bridges instead of the rickety, wooden catwalks.

Overlooking the old Kampong Ayer is the House of Twelve Roofs (Bum-bungan Dua Belas), built in 1906 and formerly the official home of the British resident. In the Kota Batu area on Jalan Residency is the Arts and Handicrafts Centre, where traditional arts and crafts have been revived.

But Kampung Ayer is only one of the many charms of Brunei that intrigue visitors to the country.

The Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque in the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan continues to attract visitors fascinated by its majestic presence, and its role in the spiritual development of the Muslim citizens of the country. The mosque is practically synonymous with Brunei in general, and with the capital in particular.

Situated very close to the mosque is the public library with its attractive mural depicting Brunei's lifestyles in the 60s. The mural was done by one of Brunei's foremost artist, Pg Dato Hj Asmalee, formerly the director of Welfare, Youth and Sports, but now the country's ambassador to a neighbour-ing country.

Another landmark of the capital is the Yayasan Sultan Hj Hassanal Bolkiah commercial complex, across the road from the Sultan Omar Ah Saifuddien mosque. The newly estab-lished complex is the prime shopping centre in Brunei - four storeys of some of the premier big-name retailers in the region! There're outlets bran-dishing branded clothing, fast food, video games, books and many more. There's a supermarket in the Yayasan's west wing, and a food court on the east.

The Royal Regalia Building is a new addition to the attractions found in the capital. Within easy walking distance of all the hotels in the capital centre, the Royal Regalia Building houses artifacts used in royal cere-monies in the country. Foremost among the displays are the Royal Chariot, the gold and silver ceremonial armoury and the jewel-encrusted crowns used in coronation ceremonies.

Entrance is free, and visitors are expected to take off their shoes before entering. Opening hours are from 8.3Oam to 5.00pm daily except for Fridays, the Building opens from 9.00am until II.30am, and in the afternoon, from 2.30pm till 5.00pm.

Located next to the Royal Regalia Building is the Brunei History Centre. Drop by the centre and learn all about the genealogy and history of the sultans of Brunei, and members of the royal family. There is an exhibition area open to the public from 7.45 am to 12.l5pm, and l.30pm to 4.3Opm daily except for Fridays.

Across the road from the Brunei Hotel, is what is known throughout Borneo as the 'tamu.' A 'tamu' is a congregation of vendors selling farm produce and general items. If you are lucky, you can find valuable bargains among the potpourri of metalware and handicraft hawked by some peddlers.

The main Chinese temple in the country lies within sight of the 'tamu.' Its elaborately designed roof and loud red colour of its outer walls make the temple stand out from among the more staid schemes of nearby buildings.

A visit during one of the many fes-tivals that is observed at this sanctum of Taoist beliefs would be a celebration of colours, spectacle and smell. Another place of worship that should not be missed by visitors to Brunei is the Church of St Andrew's. The church, possibly the oldest in Brunei, is designed like an English country parish, complete with bells in the let fry. It lies within walking distance of the Royal Regalia Building.

If you are staying in a hotel or Bandar Seri Begawan, why not pay the nightly foodstalls a visit? The stalls are located at a site in front of Sheraton Hotel, and serve a wide variety of hawker fare cheap! A dollar worth of the fried noodles is enough to fill you up.

Check out the local burgers. They're as delicious as those you'll find in established fast food outlets. Or try out 'Roti John'-the Malay version of the Big Mac. Ask for 'goreng pisang' (banana fritters), 'begedil' (potato balls), or 'popiah' (meat rolls), in your jaunts to the sweetmeat stalls.

Outside the capital centre, a worthwhile place to visit is the Jame' Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque in Kiarong, about six kilometres away. This is a beautiful sanctuary for communication with God, a personal bequest from His Majesty the Sultan of Brunei himself for the people of the country.

More than just a place of worship, the Jame' Asr is also a centre for learn-ing. Classes teaching Islamic religious principles and practices are held there regularly, as do religious lectures. And every Friday morning, the lobbies of its vast edifice are filled with children studying the Quran.

A visit to the mosque is usually part of the itinerary of package tours to Brunei, but if not, visitors can make the necessary arrangement with local tour operators. Visitors wishing to come inside the mosque need to report to the officers on duty, at the security counter on the ground floor.

Further on, you will find the Jerudong Park Playground. Situated some 20 kms to the west of the capital, JP as it is popularly called, is a must-go place for visitors to the country. It has been described as "Brunei's first high-tech wonderland for people of all ages."

There are many amusement rides at the Jerudong Park Playground to cater to everyone's need.

For those who like to live life on the edge, you would be pleased to know that JP has THREE (that's right, three) rollercoasters, each with different degrees of thrills (or insanity factors if you want).

'Pusing Lagi' takes riders up a crest almost six storeys high, and then takes them down a steep incline, before twisting and turning at breakneck speed, so much so you will regret the 'Roti John' you just had.

'Boomerang' is for people who would rather go for diabolical twists and turns, while 'Pony Express' is a ride for those newly-initiated to rollercoasters.

Other popular rides include the 'Condor', a very fast merry-go-round that takes you up some five storeys high, the 'Aladdin' ( a mechanical 'flying carpet'), 'Flashdance' (no dancing experience required), and the wildly swinging 'Pirate Ship'.

There is also a bumper car arena, only for children and youngsters though, a video arcade and tracks for skateboarding and carting. For those who prefer something more sedate, also available are a 'Merry-Go-Round', certainly the most beautiful this side of London, and the 'Simulator Tour' (virtual reality rides into the fantastic and the exotic). Try the up-tower rides, where you are taken up a tower 15 storeys high, and given a superb view of the park, and the surrounding area.

Situated next to the playground is the 20-acre Jerudong Park Gardens, which is well-known for its concert class auditorium. This was where Michael Jackson had his performances some years back, drawing a record 60,000 people to a colorful extravaganza the first time he performed.

Whitney Houston was another megastar who has had performed here, as well as Stevie ("I Just Called To Say I Love You) Wonder and the wonderful Seal ("Kissed By A Rose").

And if all that running and riding gives you an appetite, there's good food to be found in the eating area next to the parking lot. Almost anything you could crave for is available, ranging from the local hawker spreads to international fast food fare.

If you're not doing anything on a Friday morning or late afternoon, take the no.55 purple bus to the end of its line at Jerudong Beach. Jerudong Beach on Fridays, especially around 9.00-10.00am, is a hive of activity as fishermen start landing their catch and customers rush to avail themselves of the freshest fish possible. The people you'll get to meet there are among the friendliest in the country, easy with the smile and always ready for the idle chatter. But the place is more than just an informal fish market. Local fruits hang prominently from many of the stalls, and food stalls sell take-aways to cater to hungry visitors. Swim in the calm, waveless waters of the man-made cove, or try your luck fishing, if that is what you want to do. Just go around people watching. And if you need to go back to town, just board the purple bus to make the return journey.

The Bukit Shabbandar Forest Park is just the place to put those hiking legs to use. About ten minutes drive from the Jerudong Park Playground, the park is hectares upon hectares of greenery, dissected by tracks and paths for hiking, jogging and biking. While hiking, you can partake the wonders of the local forests - the rich diversity of its plantlife, the exquisite charms and colours of the insects and reptiles that live within, and the symphony in the singing of the birds. Bukit Shahbandar Forest Park is just one of the 11 forest reserves in the country.

To the east of Bandar Seri Begawan, about 6 kms into the Kota Batu area, visitors will find the Brunei Museum exhibits artifacts that archive the history of Negara Brunei Darussalam, both ancient and the relatively recent.

Well made cannons and kettles with their dragon motifs and elaborate patterns recall
the glory days of the country -when Brunei was an important political and mercantile
power in the region with territories that stretched that stretched all the way from Luzon Island in the Philippines to the whole western Borneo island.

There are exhibits which depict the traditional lifestyles of the various communities in the country, plus displays on the local flora and fauna. The exhibit by the local petroleum company Brunei Shell, illustrates the history on the discovery of oil in the country, and the commodity's significant role in economy of Brunei. The Museum is open every day except Mondays from 9.00am till 5.00pm. On Fridays however, there is a scheduled prayer break from 11.30am until 2.30pm. And situated downhill of the Brunei Museum is the Malay Technology Museum, which, as its name implies, houses the technological tools utilised by the Malays in ancient times.

A government booklet describes it as offering the "the visitor an intriguing insight into the lifestyle of the people of Brunei in by-gone eras". The Technology Museum is open daily, except Tuesdays, from 9.00 am till 5.00 pm. with a 3-hour midday prayer break on Fridays. Entrance is free.

There is an "Asean Square" in Persiaran Damuan which is located on a stretch between Jalan Tutong and the bank of the Brunei River about 4.5km from the capital. The "Asean Square" has on permanent display the work of a chosen sculptor themed Harmony in Diversity from each of the Asean member countries.

Tutong

About half-an-hour's drive away from Bandar Seri Begawan lies the Tutong district. Tutong has an area of around 1,200 sq.km but with a population of less than 35,000. However, the district is home to the best, and possibly most popular, beach in Brunei.

The Seri Kenangan Beach is a long tract of golden sand, washed by a wide expanse of the South China Sea. It is set on some 10 kilometre stretch of spit, and neighbours the Tutong River situated just across the road.

On Fridays and Sundays, the beach is full of bathers, picnickers and people out to enjoy the cooling sea-breeze and the lively atmosphere. You'll find fishing enthusiasts trying their luck on both sides of the spit. You'll find kids flying kites, taking advantage of the strong winds. All around you can find stalls selling local take-aways to satisfy the hunger pangs, and toys to keep the little ones happy.

The Tutong district is also the abode for one of the largest lakes in the country: Tasek (Lake) Merimbun. Secluded Tasek Merimbun, an hour's drive from Bandar Seri Begawan, is just the place for people who want to "get away from it all" or as a visitor's guide claims, for "those who enjoy nature." Surrounded almost all round by dense jungle, the lake is reputedly also a good place for birdwatching. And the trail that cuts across makes the jungle an ideal place to hike, and "commune with nature."

The islet located in the middle of the lake-"a restful and quiet spot"- and accessible through a wooden walkway, has pavilion facilities for picnicking. The lake is quite well stocked with fish, and jaunts by fishing enthusiasts to the area are quite common.

Belait

Traditional houses nearby complement the overall beauty of the area, and turn the lake into one very photogenic location. About 80 kms from Bandar Seri Begawan lies the Belait district, where the local petroleum and natural gas industries are located. If you drive by way of the Anduki road from the capital, you will soon come to the oil refining and processing facilities in Seria - a vast complex with its gigantic storage tanks, tall shiny steeples and towers that spew fire.

Fire? Yes. Gas given off during petroleum processing is discarded by burning, which at night, gives Seria town an ethereal radiance, and a thoroughly unique ambience. And as you go around Seria, especially along the coastal road, you'll see the "nodding donkeys", devices that pump oil up from its underground basin for easier retrieval.

Sixteen kilometres southwards from Seria is Kuala Belait, the administrative centre for the district. Go to the seafront of the town, and let yourself be soothed by the cooling breeze from the sea, while wild waves break on the sands. Watch local residents enjoying themselves on the wide beach after a hard day at work. Don't miss the gala of colours across the sky as the sun begins its setting motion.

Drive to the ferry point and take a ride ($5 per car per trip across, free for pedestrians) across the narrow Belait rivermouht; explore the rustic charms of the Malay village of Sungai Teraban, with its quaint houses and shops, and very friendly residents.

For the more adventurous, make arrangements to go to Kuala Balait, formerly the main governance centre in the district, but now a charming village that is home for the indigenous Belait community. It is a little out of the way, but the trip will be worth it.

Or explore the longhouses of the Iban community in Labi. This will require some 60 kilometres of driving through some of the most remote areas in Brunei, but the scenery will compensate for the hardship you endure. To go there, turn into the Labi junction at Sungai Liang and drive all the way to the end of the road. Along the way, you will pass the Sungai Liang Forest Recreational Park, an area developed by the government as a nature reserve to be enjoyed by visitors.

You will also come across swathes of forests where the trees are big and tall; you will pass houses built in tradi-tional designs in villages that seem so isolated; you will drive through undulating terrains of high hills, where the clouds form in the mornings, and low valleys where fruit trees grow in abundance.

You will see places like the Luagan Lalak Recreational Park which overlooks a small lake; Bukit Puan village situated next to the yellowish Belait river; and sawmills that are scattered around the area.

At the end of the metalled road is the village Rampayoh. There is a 16 door Iban longhouse at the side of the road. Drop in if you want to, but first get the permission from the residents. However, etiquette requires that you bring along some small gifts as a presentation.

The Iban is one of the many indigenous groups in Brunei. Well known for their graceful ngajat dance and the wonderful 'ilang' (machete), the Ibans have managed to retain many of the traditional ways of life despite the encroachment from modernity.

The Rampayoh longhouse would also be your starting point should you desire to hike to the Wong Kadir waterfall, some 45 to 60 minutes away inside the nearby jungle. Other longhouses lie further inside the area, in Mendaram and Teraja, but the access is a bit diffi-cult due to the poor road conditions.

Temburong

Temburong lies an hour's boat ride away from Bandar Seri Begawan. This is where you'll find the increasingly popular Ulu Temburong National Park, a 50 thousand hectares of virgin rain-forest where "human impact… has been limited," says a visitors' guide.

The National Park, located to the south of the district and accessible only by the 'temuai' or longboats, is nature at its best. The area is rich in "biodiversity," claims the guide. An entomologist doing research in the area once found over 400 species of beetle in a SINGLE tree!

There are facilities and amenities set up by the Forestry Department to enable visitors enjoy the park to the fullest. For instance, there are the so called nature exploration trails, which incorporates some 7 kms of walkways, to give better access to steep and swampy terrains, as well as protect ground vegetation and prevent erosion.

A forest canopy walkway provides visitors with the rare opportunity to examine the upper layers of the forest, which are so rich in life. Treehouses, 20 metres up the trees and connected by hanging bridges, are good for studying nature, while observation points give the sightseers panoramic views of river and highlands in the National Park.

Accommodation - consisting of seven guesthouses and three camp sites, complete with basic facilities - are provided for visitors close to the Park's headquarters. Also found there are an information centre, staff quarters and a prayer hall.

The Rainforest Field Studies Centre, a focal point for teaching, training and research into the lowland tropical forests of Brunei, lies 10km upstream from the road at Kampong Batang Duri which is the last human settlement along Sungai Temburong. It is jointly funded by His Majesty's Government and Shell International and Brunei Shell.

On the eastern part of the district, some 15 kms from Bangar, the admin-istrative centre for Temburong, lies the Peradayan Forest Recreation Park. The Peradayan Park "has a unique geologi-cal character, with some unusual caves and rock formations."

The 1,000-hectare park includes the twin hills of the 410-metre high Bukit (Hill) Peradayan, and the 310-metre Bukit Patoi. A visit to the park can "include a 1.6km forest trail that winds up and down a mountainside to the peak. The frill trek requires about two hours." And along the way, one may encounter such wildlife like wild boars and the 'kijang' (mousedeer).

The Explore Brunei visitors' guide says "the rocky summit of Bukit Patoi has an open patch of flat stone which acts as a viewpoint and a helipad.

There is a pleasant breeze at the summit, and panoramic views of green jungle, blue sea, villages and fields of neighbouring Sarawak."

But Temburong is more than just forest parks. The district is home to many indigenous communities, each of them rich with their own cultural identity and traditional lifestyles, which makes Temburong such a memorable visit.

Take a drive around the Malay villages, with their pillared houses and compound filled with fruit trees and flowered plants of various sorts. Make a trip to the longhouses of the Ibans, fierce warriors in the olden days, but today friendly, gentle folks with an accommodating dating nature. The Lun Bawangs are fine musicians and dancers. See how they celebrate their religious festivals with a local flovour. Some travel agents provide packages for day and overnight trips to Temburong. The rates charged are quite reasonable. The packages are so arranged to enable visitors to take in the sights as well as enjoy themselves while there.

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Revised: December 25, 1999.